Jewelry From Africa

I received a question regarding diamonds – I thought this may be of interest to others looking to buy diamonds.

Hello,
What is the difference between ideal and excellent cut diamonds?
There are so many factors to consider. Would you be kind enough as to give me some pointers as what to look for or avoid? Please help.
Thank you in advance.
Sincerely,
Susan

Hi,
Very little difference – “ideal cut” is a brand like Nike – so don’t be misled.

You can find out more about diamonds at diamond_facts
Also remember that even after you have chosen a diamond by looking at the 4 C’s (cut, clarity, carat and colour) some diamonds just look better. The one thing missing on all certificates is brilliance and sparkle. A well cut diamond should sparkle – some are much better than others. Only by looking one stone next to another do you see the difference.

If you are looking at stones – always ask to see them next to one another – you will see a difference in colour, size and sparkle. Most dealers will open one at a time and close the packet before showing another – security as the excuse.

Remember that carat is a weight – not a size – a badly cut diamond might be bigger in size than a well cut diamond – making you think it is a bargain – but because it is not in proportion it will not reflect and refract light in the best way – making it dull and lifeless. Unless it is next to a well cut stone you are unlikely to spot the difference. But once you have seen a lively stone you will not want to buy size over brilliance.

The best way to start is to visit reputable stores and let them show you stones and prices. Ask for details and write them down – colour, caret weight and clarity. This will allow you to compare pricing. All diamonds should have a certificate – listing all the details. This usually ensures that they are not conflict diamonds.

I am happy to show you some diamonds and teach you what to look for – it is not that hard – jewellers tend to make it hard – keep the mystery.

Decide on a budget first – very important. Remember that the sales person will try to “upsell” . Buying an engagement stone is an emotional decision and it is very easy to get carried away. Most people want a “1/2 carat or a 1 carat, this makes it easy for us to manipulate your buying decision. If you are buying as a couple it is even harder. Choose your budget and STICK TO IT.

Then decide what size you would like (may not always be what you want). Prices on diamonds jump disproportionately when you go from just under a rounded size to that size – for example a stone weighing 0.48 carats is a lot cheaper than a stone weighing 0.5ct (1/2 carat). The difference in size is so small that only a very accurate scale can tell the difference. There is no way by looking  that anybody (including a highly experainced dealer) can tell. So why pay the premium for no difference!

From there I can help you decide what colour and clarity. If it is an engagement stone – it should be white (unless you like the fancy yellows etc – they are beautiful) This means the cert should be a colour H or above.

The stone does not need to be flawless – anything above a Si1 is good as you cannot see the flaw without magnification (although if the flaw is in the wrong place it can reflect through the stone and make it dull).

I have seen “loving couples” fall out over buying diamonds. Every girls dream is a “blue white one carat diamond”. Often this is just not possible – and in a lot of cases totally impractical. I had blokes with the budget come in and buy a huge stone for a lady that has tiny fingers – the result is that the design is limited – usually to a large claw stuck on top of a tiny band – ugly as anything! An engagement ring needs to be worn every day, hopefully for the rest of ones life – think about it. Consider the stress of wearing (and being responsable for) a ring that costs as much as a house. Perhaps that one carat diamond should be in a dress ring to be worn on special occasions.

When choosing a shank design, the same thing applies, it must be wearable, and it must be hard wearing – very fine shanks and claws mean that you will be back in the future for repairs. White gold is very soft – go for platinum if you can afford it – it will pay off in the long run. Watch out for rhodium plated rings, they look fantastic when you buy but it will wear off, sometimes ending up with a lemon colour white gold. Another alternative are Titanium engagement rings – very hard and durable – but it does have limitation in design. The less expensive option is a titanium shank and a diamond set into titanium – black diamonds are always a great option for mens rings.

The last pointer……Men – when buying without your partner – be careful. Most of you have no clue about what your partner wants. Trust me. I have had customers who have been married 40 years coming in to have their rings remodeled.  The ring has worn (or they have built up the courage to change it) and now is their chance to change the design. They confide in me that they never liked the ring from day one – but did not want to hurt their new fiances feelings! Imagine that – wearing a ring you hate for 40 years! My advice – include her in the buying descion. If you want to surprise her – buy her the diamond and give her that – let her chose her own design. If you want to put something on her finger – choose an inexpensive, simple design and tell her that you will take her to the jeweller to have her dream ring made. It will be the start of a caring relationship.

Let me know if I can help.

Wayne 2010